Quick Questions? Email Us

info@climbinnepal.com

8000m Peaks

Lhotse

Prepare to stand
on top of the world.

Altitude

8516 m

Co-ordinates

27.9617° N, 86.9333° E

Duration

36 Days

Best Season

Spring

Activity

8000m Expedition

Trip Grade

Extremely Difficult (Alpine TD+/ED – Très Difficile to Extrêmement Difficile)

Enquire Now

Mount Lhotse Expedition

Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak at 8,516 meters, rises directly south of Everest on the Nepal-Tibet border. Its name means “South Peak” in Tibetan, connected to Everest via the South Col. First summited in 1956 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss, it’s a serious technical challenge featuring the iconic 1,125-meter Lhotse Face and steep Reiss Couloir. Our expeditions run 6–8 weeks, sharing Everest’s route to Camp 4 before the final demanding ascent. We provide experienced Sherpa guides, permits, camps, oxygen, and comprehensive safety support for this formidable climb.

Detailed itinerary

Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you are met by our expedition staff and transferred to your hotel in Kathmandu. After check-in, time is reserved to rest or gently explore the city. In the evening, a welcome briefing is held where you meet the expedition leaders, review logistics, and receive an overview of the journey ahead.

These two days are dedicated to comprehensive expedition preparation. Activities include detailed equipment checks, final gear fitting, documentation verification, and official briefings covering climbing strategy, safety protocols, and acclimatization plans. Our experienced guides ensure that all equipment meets expedition standards and that climbers are fully prepared for high-altitude conditions.

An early morning scenic flight transports you to Lukla, offering breathtaking views of the Himalayas. After landing at the iconic mountain airstrip, the trek officially begins. The trail follows the Dudh Koshi River through pine forests and Sherpa villages, leading to the riverside settlement of Phakding. This gentle first day supports gradual acclimatization.

The trail continues through forests and suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags. Entering Sagarmatha National Park, the route ascends steadily toward Namche Bazaar. On clear days, your first views of Everest and Lhotse appear along the trail. Namche Bazaar serves as the commercial and cultural heart of the Khumbu region.

A vital acclimatization day. Short hikes to nearby viewpoints such as Everest View Hotel or Khumjung village help the body adapt to altitude. The remainder of the day is spent resting, hydrating, and exploring Namche’s markets, bakeries, and museums.

Leaving Namche Bazaar, the trail contours along the hillside with stunning panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam. After a gradual descent to the Dudh Koshi River, the route climbs steadily through pine and rhododendron forests toward Tengboche. Upon arrival, you visit the renowned Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual heart of the Khumbu region, set against an extraordinary mountain backdrop. The peaceful alpine setting and crisp mountain air make this a memorable and inspiring day on the journey toward higher elevations.

Today’s trek leads deeper into the high Himalaya as you descend briefly through rhododendron and juniper forests before crossing the Imja Khola River. The trail then ascends steadily above the tree line, revealing dramatic alpine scenery and expansive mountain views. Passing traditional settlements and mani walls, you continue toward Dingboche, a picturesque village set beneath the towering faces of Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The increasing altitude is noticeable, making a steady pace and proper hydration essential as you settle in for the night at this important acclimatization stop.

This important acclimatization day is designed to help your body adjust safely to the increasing altitude. The day typically includes a short, guided hike to nearby ridges or viewpoints such as Nangkartshang Peak, offering sweeping views of Makalu, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and the Imja Valley. After returning to Dingboche, the afternoon is reserved for rest, hydration, and monitoring individual health. Proper acclimatization here is crucial for a successful ascent, ensuring improved strength, recovery, and confidence for the higher stages of the expedition.

Today’s trek takes you into a more rugged, high-altitude environment as the trail follows the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. The route gradually ascends past Dughla before climbing to Thukla Pass, where memorials honor climbers who have lost their lives on Everest. This poignant stop offers a moment of reflection amid the vast Himalayan landscape. Continuing along glacial terrain, you reach Lobuche, a small settlement surrounded by ice, rock, and towering peaks, where thinner air signals your proximity to Everest Base Camp.

Today marks one of the most iconic and anticipated days of the expedition. Following the undulating trail along the Khumbu Glacier, you pass through the settlement of Gorak Shep before continuing toward Everest Base Camp. The route winds through dramatic лед formations, moraine ridges, and expansive glacial landscapes, with Nuptse towering overhead. Upon arrival at Everest Base Camp, you stand at the foot of the world’s highest mountain an unforgettable moment that signals the transition from trekking to true high-altitude mountaineering.

These days are dedicated to rest, acclimatization, and essential technical training at Everest Base Camp. Under the guidance of experienced climbing leaders and Sherpa guides, you will practice fixed-line techniques, ladder crossings, crampon use, and crevasse safety skills vital for navigating the Khumbu Icefall. Time is also spent organizing personal gear, reviewing climbing strategies, and monitoring health and acclimatization. This period allows the team to settle into life on the glacier while building confidence and preparedness for the upcoming rotations through the higher camps.

Today you begin the first major climbing rotation, entering the Khumbu Icefall one of the most dynamic and challenging sections of the route. Moving carefully across ladders, crevasses, and towering ice seracs, you follow fixed lines under the supervision of experienced guides. The ascent is physically demanding and requires focus and steady pacing. Reaching Camp I, set in the upper Khumbu Icefall, marks a significant milestone as you gain confidence in glacier travel and take your first step toward higher altitude camps.

Leaving Camp I behind, the route opens into the broad expanse of the Western Cwm, often referred to as the “Valley of Silence.” Surrounded by towering walls of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse, the climb is gradual but physically demanding due to strong solar radiation and rising temperatures. Maintaining a steady pace and proper hydration is essential. Arrival at Camp II, located at the base of the Lhotse Face, provides a critical acclimatization platform and a preview of the steep terrain ahead.

After a night at Camp II, the focus today is on a safe and controlled descent back to Everest Base Camp. Retracing your route through the Western Cwm and carefully navigating the Khumbu Icefall, you apply the skills practiced during training and the previous ascent. Descending allows your body to recover while reinforcing acclimatization gains made at higher altitude. Returning to Base Camp provides an opportunity for rest, nourishment, and assessment as the team prepares for the next rotation in the climbing schedule.

These days are reserved for recovery and regeneration at Everest Base Camp following the first acclimatization rotation. Climbers focus on rest, proper nutrition, and hydration while the body adapts to the altitude gained. Medical checks and individual health assessments are conducted by the expedition staff, and time is spent reviewing climbing performance and refining strategies for the next phase. This essential downtime helps restore energy, strengthen acclimatization, and ensure both physical and mental readiness for higher and more demanding climbs ahead.

Today marks the start of the second acclimatization rotation as you ascend from Everest Base Camp directly to Camp II. Once again navigating the Khumbu Icefall, you move with increased confidence and efficiency, applying skills gained during earlier climbs. The route continues across the Western Cwm, where careful pacing and hydration remain crucial under intense sun exposure. Reaching Camp II for an extended stay further strengthens acclimatization and prepares your body for the steeper, more technical sections that lie ahead.

Today’s ascent takes you up the formidable Lhotse Face, a steep wall of blue ice rising above the Western Cwm. Using fixed ropes, you climb steadily with crampons and ascenders, maintaining precise footwork and controlled breathing in thinning air. The exposure and gradient demand focus, strength, and technical discipline. Reaching Camp III, perched on a narrow ledge high on the face, represents a major acclimatization gain and a crucial step toward readiness for the upper mountain and summit push.

After spending the night at high altitude, today you carefully descend from Camp III back to Camp II. Moving down the steep fixed lines of the Lhotse Face, controlled technique and concentration are essential to ensure safety. The descent allows your body to recover while reinforcing acclimatization benefits gained at over 7,000 meters. Upon returning to Camp II, you rest, rehydrate, and regain strength, marking the successful completion of a critical high-altitude rotation before returning to Base Camp.

Following the demanding high-altitude rotation, these days are dedicated to rest and recovery at Everest Base Camp. Climbers focus on restoring energy levels through proper nutrition, hydration, and sleep while the body adapts to recent altitude gains. The expedition team monitors weather conditions, reviews performance, and fine-tunes summit strategies. This extended rest period is vital for physical recovery and mental readiness, ensuring each climber is well-prepared for the final acclimatization climbs and the eventual summit attempt.

Today you begin the final acclimatization rotation, ascending once more from Everest Base Camp to Camp II. With the route now familiar, you move efficiently through the Khumbu Icefall, applying refined techniques and heightened confidence. Crossing the Western Cwm, steady pacing and hydration remain essential under the intense alpine sun. Reaching Camp II again reinforces your acclimatization and positions the team for the decisive climbs ahead, bringing you one step closer to the summit phase of the expedition.

Today you ascend once again up the steep and icy Lhotse Face, following fixed ropes toward Camp III. With improved acclimatization and experience on the route, the climb feels more controlled, though the altitude presents a constant challenge. Careful foot placement, efficient rope management, and steady breathing are essential as you gain elevation. Reaching Camp III for a second time further strengthens high-altitude tolerance and serves as a critical step in preparing your body and mind for the final ascent to the upper camps and summit.

Today’s climb takes you from Camp III up the upper Lhotse Face toward Camp IV, also known as the South Col. The route continues along steep, fixed lines before easing slightly as you approach the col between Everest and Lhotse. The altitude is extreme, and every step requires focus, efficient movement, and controlled breathing. Upon reaching Camp IV, you enter the death zone, where time is limited. The remainder of the day is spent resting, hydrating, and preparing equipment for the upcoming summit attempt.

Summit day begins in the early hours under starlit skies as you depart Camp IV for the final ascent. Climbing through extreme altitude, the route follows steep fixed lines up the upper Lhotse Face before entering the narrow and demanding Reiss Couloir. Every step is deliberate as oxygen levels are critically low and conditions can be harsh. Reaching the summit of Lhotse is a profound and hard-earned achievement, rewarded with breathtaking views across the Himalayan giants. After a brief summit stay, you begin a careful descent back to Camp IV or lower, prioritizing safety and endurance.

Following the summit push, today is dedicated to a long but rewarding descent back to Everest Base Camp. Carefully retracing the route from the upper camps, you descend through Camp IV, Camp III, and Camp II as conditions and energy levels allow. As altitude decreases, breathing becomes easier and strength gradually returns. Reaching Base Camp marks the successful completion of the climbing phase of the expedition, offering a sense of relief, achievement, and the comfort of rest after one of the world’s most demanding ascents.

Today you begin the return journey from Everest Base Camp, trekking back toward Lobuche along the familiar route beside the Khumbu Glacier. With the major climbing objectives behind you, the walk feels noticeably more relaxed, allowing time to reflect on the summit experience and the scale of the surrounding peaks. Descending to lower altitude brings improved energy and comfort. Upon arrival in Lobuche, you settle into the lodge, enjoy warm meals, and rest as the body continues to recover from the high-altitude effort.

Today’s trek takes you steadily downhill through the heart of the Khumbu region, retracing the route past Thukla Pass and along the Dudh Koshi valley. As you descend, oxygen levels increase and walking becomes noticeably easier. Passing familiar landmarks and villages, you enjoy renewed energy and a sense of accomplishment after the successful expedition. Arrival in Namche Bazaar brings comfortable lodges, hot showers, and a lively atmosphere an ideal place to relax, celebrate, and reconnect with the vibrant mountain culture of the region.

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River back toward Lukla, passing through traditional Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, and forested trails. With most of the elevation behind you, the walk is comfortable and reflective, allowing time to appreciate the journey from start to finish. Upon reaching Lukla, you celebrate the successful completion of the trek and expedition with your climbing team and support staff. The evening is filled with gratitude, shared stories, and a sense of accomplishment before returning to Kathmandu.

This morning you board a scenic flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, offering final aerial views of the Khumbu region and the Himalayan peaks that defined your journey. Upon arrival in the capital, you are transferred to your hotel, where modern comforts await after weeks in the mountains. The remainder of the day is free to rest, enjoy fine dining, or explore Kathmandu’s cultural highlights as you transition back to city life following an extraordinary high-altitude expedition.

These final days in Kathmandu are reserved for rest, reflection, and contingency following the expedition. You have time to fully recover, enjoy the comforts of your hotel, and explore the city’s rich cultural heritage at a relaxed pace. A formal expedition debrief is held to review the climb and share experiences, followed by celebratory gatherings to honor the success of the team and support staff. These days provide a meaningful and enjoyable conclusion to the expedition before international departure.

Your Himalayan expedition officially concludes today with a scheduled transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international departure. As you leave Nepal, you carry unforgettable memories, lasting friendships, and the immense achievement of summiting one of the world’s great peaks. The experiences gained on the mountain discipline, resilience, and perspective remain long after the journey ends, marking this expedition as a defining chapter in your mountaineering life.

Includes:

  1. Complimentary airport arrival and departure transfers in Kathmandu.

  2. Four nights’ deluxe hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast (two on arrival, two on return/leisure).

  3. Round-trip domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla with all airport taxes.

  4. Three meals per day throughout the trek, at Base Camp, and during the expedition for members and staff.

  5. Full Lhotse expedition permit, Khumbu Icefall route permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry fees, liaison officer charges, garbage deposit, and related government permits.

  6. High-altitude food, cooking equipment, and utensils up to and at Base Camp.

  7. Group climbing equipment including ropes, ice bars, fixed lines, walkie-talkies, and essential team logistics.

  8. Base Camp setup with twin-sharing tents during the approach trek, single tents at Base Camp, plus dining, kitchen, toilet, and shower facilities where applicable.

  9. Porter services for gear transport to and from Base Camp, with full wages, food, equipment, clothing, and insurance for all Nepalese staff and crew.

  10. Experienced high-altitude Sherpa guides and assistants with dedicated summit support.

  11. Supplemental oxygen cylinders for members and high-altitude Sherpa, high-quality mask and regulator sets, and emergency oxygen reserves at Base Camp.

Excludes:

  1. International round-trip airfare to and from Kathmandu.

  2. Nepal tourist visa fees on arrival or in advance.

  3. Lunch, dinner, and extra meals in Kathmandu beyond breakfast.

  4. Additional hotel nights in Kathmandu beyond the scheduled four nights.

  5. Personal travel, medical, high-altitude mountaineering, and emergency helicopter evacuation insurance.

  6. Extra drinks and beverages during the trek and at Base Camp.

  7. Hot showers and hot/boiled water charges during the trek.

  8. Local entry fees and donations at monasteries, temples, schools, or similar sites.

  9. Costs for optional acclimatization or additional peak climbing permits and logistics.

  10. Helicopter charges for evacuation, faster descent, or non-emergency flights.

  11. Khumbu Icefall Doctor or fixed-rope charges if not included in the package.

  12. Personal climbing equipment, clothing, boots, sleeping bag, and technical mountaineering gear.

  13. Drone permit fees and related government charges.

  14. Wi-Fi, internet, and communication costs during the trek or at Base Camp.

  15. Laundry, phone calls, souvenirs, optional activities, and any services not listed in the “Price Includes” section.